Growing Orchids In Greenhouses, Can You ? By Robert Roy
Will the climates help growing orchids? Is it easy or hard to grow them? I thought that growing orchids was difficult?
All these are great questions and have a great deal to do with greenhouses. You will see a growing number of folks using greenhouses to grow orchids and a slew of other plants.
To answer the question simply, Yes you can use greenhouses for orchids but there are a few stipulations. They will usually do very well and may even bloom more frequently for you.
To answer some of the questions raised earlier. An orchid green house can be a very good place to grow you favorite plants including orchids. Depending on the style of your greenhouse both the light and temperature can be maintained.
Some orchids will grow very well in hot, tropical climates, like Vandas. Others like the see a temperature decrease in the night time like the phalaenopsis orchids.
Your greenhouse will be a special place for you to come to enjoy your hobby. It will be your "sanctuary".
Before you purchase a greenhouse be sure you fully understand what will be necessary to help control both the temperature and the light. For example, growing orchids like phalaenopsis orchids like bright light but not necessarily direct sunlight. They do like a West setting and late day sun. The Cattleya orchids do well in sunlight.
Greenhouses vary both in size, shape and cost. Some use wood as the frame, others use aluminum. It seems that aluminum stands up better to the whims of nature than does wood. It also looks better for a longer period of time.
If you live in the Northern part of the US you definitely will need a heat source for your growing plants. This could be gas fired small furnaces or electric heat. Remember, when you turn the heat on humidity goes down.
Good ventilation and humidity are very important. Most plants including growing orchids depend on air circulation. A fan can do this very easily. Be sure to keep the fan clean to avoid cross pollination of disease from one plant to another.
Growing orchids in greenhouses will allow you to grow plants year round. You plant what you want, when you want to, and how you want. You can control the light, temperature, watering and humidity so you will have a healthy, viable greenhouse for your hobby.
About the Author: Sign up for tips in our monthly Orchid Newsletter and get your copy of "All About Orchids" e-book and your 10% Discount on an orchid. http://www.orchids-plus-more.com/orchidaeae.html Bob has become fascinated with orchids. Once it gets into your bloodstream it's hard to turn it off. Over a year ago I developed Orchids Plus More Web site.
Mulching beds has become extremely popular these days, and mulch can be really beneficial to your plants and the soil in your planting beds, but there are things you need to watch for.
Here in Ohio the most popular type of mulch that people use is shredded hardwood bark mulch, which is a byproduct of the timber industry. When they haul the logs into the sawmill the first thing they do is debark them. Years ago the bark was a huge problem for the mills because there didn't seem to be a useful purpose for it, until people realized the hidden benefits that it held. Still to this day, the bark is a headache for the saw mills, and they don't always understand how to properly handle it.
They like to pile it as high as they can so it takes up less space in their yard. The mulch really tends to back up during the winter months because there is little demand for it. In order for the mills to pile the mulch high, they literally have to drive the large front end loaders up onto the pile. Of course the weight of these large machines compacts the mulch in the pile, and this can become a huge problem for you or I if we happen to get some mulch that has been stacked too high, and compacted too tightly.
When the trees are first debarked the mulch is fairly fresh, and needs to decompose before we dare use it around our plants. The decomposition process requires oxygen and air flow into the pile. When the mulch is compacted too tight, this air flow cannot take place, and as the mulch continues to decompose it becomes extremely hot as the organic matter ferments. Sometimes the extreme heat combined with the inability to release the heat can cause the pile to burst into flame through spontaneous combustion.
In other cases the mulch heats up, cannot release the gas, and the mulch actually becomes toxic. When this occurs the mulch develops an overbearing odor that will take your breath away as you dig into the pile. When you spread this toxic mulch around your plants the gas it contains is released, and this gas can and will burn your plants.
It has happened to me twice. Once at my own house, and once on a job I was doing for a customer. This toxic mulch is very potent. We spilled a little mulch in the foliage of a Dwarf Alberta Spruce that we were mulching around, and just a few minutes later brushed the mulch out of the plant. The next day my customer noticed that one side of the plant was all brown. The mulch had only been there for a matter of minutes.
Not only did I have to replace the Dwarf Alberta Spruce, but the mulch also damaged at least 10 other plants that I had to replace. I once saw where somebody ordered a truck load of mulch, had it dumped in their driveway, and as the toxic mulch slid out of the dump truck onto the asphalt the toxic gas that was released settled on the lawn next to the driveway.
The gas, not the mulch, turned the grass brown next to the mulch pile.
This same person spread several yards of the mulch around their house before they realized the problem, and it ruined many of their plants.
Now here's the hard part; trying to explain to you how to identify toxic mulch. It has a very strong odor that will take your breath away. But then again almost all mulch has a powerful odor. This is very different than your typical mulch smell, but I can't explain it any better than that.
The mulch looks perfectly normal, maybe a little darker in color than usual. If you suspect a problem with the mulch you have, take a couple of shovels full, and place it around an inexpensive plant. Maybe just a couple of flowers. When doing this test use mulch from inside the mulch pile and not from the edges. The mulch on the edge of the pile has more than likely released most of the toxic gas that it may have held.
If after 24 hours the test plants are okay, the mulch should be fine. The purpose of this article is not to induce panic at the mulch yard, but toxic mulch can do serious damage. At my house it burned the leaves right off some of the plants in my landscape, and burned the grass next to the bed all the way around the house. It looked like somebody had taken a torch and burned the grass back about 2” all the way around the bed. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I wouldn't have believed it.
About the Author: Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.
Because of an alarming condition of our atmosphere these days and the impact of technological innovations have on our health, everything seems to be resorting to a more viable option - organics. From foods to even hobbies like gardening, organics had definitely taken the limelight.
Nowadays, one of the gradually emerging lucrative activity for hobbyist, and environmentalist for that matter, is organic gardening. It slowly replaces the traditional type of gardening that involves harmful chemicals that speed up the destruction of our Ozone layer.
Organic gardening, basically, refers to one type of gardening that deviates from the customary use of chemicals like fertilizers and pesticides. Because of these, many agriculturists contend that engaging into organics gardening makes one in synchrony with nature.
The basic notion of organics gardening boils down to the fact that it is best to feed the soil and not the plant. Thus, we can hypothetically say that, in organic gardening, it is the soil that needs more nourishment than the plants, or simply because it's from the soil that the plants obtain their nourishment. A healthy soil yields a healthy plant, so to speak.
In organic gardening, the basic concept of "fertilizing" the soil is to use organic materials like composts and manures. When fertilizing the soil, it doesn't necessarily mean that you use fertilizers. In fact, fertilizers were primarily denoted as anything that increases the soil's fertility.
Hence, organic gardening is a way of going back to the basics, the traditional use of basic fertilizers that increases the soil's capability to enrich the plant. In this manner, the grower uses minerals like calcium coming from the fossils of dead animals, nitrogen from legumes or manures, phosphorus from bones of dead animals, and potassium from wood ashes.
On the other hand, organic growers also consider
composts of other living things like vegetables or plants when incorporating the idea of organic gardening. Its by-product is known as the humus, which is definitely good for the soil. In organic gardening, humus is an important element in plant production because it contains cellulose that performs like a sponge and retains moisture in the soil so that it will be made available for the plants as they grow.
Moreover, organic gardening incorporates the traditional way of controlling animal pests like physical removal of insects, crop rotation, interplanting, and introduction of prey species. These methods lessen the growth of insects and curb the multiplication of pests. It also impedes the development of diseases that were emphasized by "agribusiness monocropping".
In addition, organic gardening employs the typical suppression of weeds and vegetables pests without having to opt for herbicides. In this organic gardening method of removing weeds, "mulches" are placed on the weeds to prevent them from obtaining the amount of light they need in order to grow. These mulches act as barriers for weeds and vegetable pests. They come in different forms like leaves, stones, wood, or straw.
In general, the technique of organic gardening lies on two agricultural concept: permaculture and biodynamic agriculture.
Permaculture or permanent culture refers to that area in agriculture wherein certain ecological principle, "shared ethics" like earth care and people care, and design tools are used so as to gain sustainable development in plants. On the other hand, biodynamics agriculture is composed of a biological at the same time sustainable system of agricultural assembly.
With these two concepts, we can safely derive the fundamental idea of organic gardening as a system based on environmental, sustainable, and ethical principles of man.
So, we now know for a fact that organic gardening is definitely a lot better than what science and technology teaches us these days.
The only drawback is that it is science that taught us the basic ways on how to care for the environment in the first place, and yet, it is also the same mentor who is teaching us how to employ concepts that eventually leads to nature's destruction. Isn't it ironic?
About the Author: Subscribe to "Gardening Secrets Unearthed" 7-part e-mail course from http://GardeningSecretsAndTips.com! Discover the keys to having a garden a professional landscaper would envy.
Terraces present wonderful possibilities in the garden. They are outdoor living rooms during good weather and form a transition from the outdoors to the indoors throughout the year.
The terrace may be either at ground level, below ground level, or raised above it. The simplest type is ground level, which requires only the grading we have indicated. There is a wide choice of flooring materials to use. One may use cement, poured and levelled with a large board, but in maintaining the drainage grade or including shallow drainage paths, smooth turf may be used, in which case the preparation will be the same as for other lawn areas and various other types of bases.
The use of flagstones is made simple by applying a load of sand or gravel to the subsoil and digging the flagstones into the sand or gravel. The niches between the stones can be dug out and filled with top-soil and grass or other cover planted between them. This gives a very pleasing effect.
Hollow clay building tiles can be split and laid as units in the terrace floor, their rough edges in the soil. Another good surfacing material is "exposed aggregate," which is free from glare because of its rough finish. For this type of surface, build a form of 2 x 4's. Pour the flooring in squares, one square at a time, and level with a straight board. The material used is a mixture of cement, sharp sand and crushed rock or pebbles.
Redwood or cypress blocks may also be used for terrace floors and are very attractive, although somewhat less durable than stone or brick. You can buy the blocks cut to size and lay them directly in a bed of sand, which in turn has been laid on compacted gravel or cinder. Un-mortared brick, laid in a pattern, on 2 to 4 inches of well-tamped sand, with loose sand in the crevices for grass, makes a hardy and simple-to-construct terrace floor. The bricks may be laid flat or on end, and to keep them from spreading, drive an angle iron against the corners. Use a pattern that follows the lines of your terrace.
The Sunken Terrace Gardening
A sunken terrace is one which is below ground level. It can be very attractive, and it does give a feeling of coolness on a humid day or a hot night. The sunken terrace requires a retaining wall to prevent soil from continually eroding into it, and also to maintain the topsoil of the surrounding garden. The subsoil must be dug to a depth of about 5 or 6 inches below the level you wish to attain with the terrace itself. The use of sand or gravel as a base is of importance. The top treatment can follow your own dictates.
The Raised Terrace Gardening
The raised terrace is generally not fully raised, but starts at the house level and is raised at its outer edge. Again, a retaining wall is called for. The principle problem with the raised terrace is levelling. Once this is accomplished, and the retaining wall built, construction follows the same procedure as in any other case. Drainage is supplied either by a central drain, going into a tile line, or by underground piping through the retaining wall.
About the Author: Landscaping and gardening hasn’t always been my occupation, but it has been my passion for a very long time. I inhale landscaping books and magazines. I have lots of landscaping ideas for all the enthusiasts at http://www.e-landscaping-ideas.com
6 Important Tips For Rose Care In Your Rose Garden
By Bob Roy
Many people could not resist a rose's beauty and scent. Imagine this coming from your rose garden. These flowers are known to be a bit complicated to grow, but anyone could start rose gardening in the comfort of her own backyard. Good rose care will keep it beautiful.
To make sure that your most prized rose garden is in the pink or even red of their health, simply follow these tips on rose care dealing with most of their health dilemma:
1. Black Spots on Leaves in Your Rose Garden
This disease is commonly known as black spot. Black spots appear as circular with fringed edges on leaves. They cause the leaves to yellow. The solution is to remove the infected foliage and pick up any fallen leaves around the rose. For the rose care artificial sprays may be used to prevent or treat this kind of rose disease.
2. Stunted or malformed young canes
Known as powdery mildew, this is a fungal disease that covers leaves, stems and buds with wind spread white powder. It makes the leaves to curl and turn purple. Spray with Funginex or Benomyl to treat this fungal disease that could ruin your rose garden.
3. Blistered underside of leaves
A disease of roses known as rust, it is characterized with orange-red blisters that turn black in fall. In spring, it attacks new sprouts. This disease can even survive winter. What you can do is to collect and discard leaves that are infected in fall. Benomyl and Funginex spraying every 7-10 days may help.
4. Malformed or stunted leaves and flowers - not for your rose garden
What could have caused this is the presence of spider mites. They are tiny yellow, red or green spiders on the underside of leaves. They also suck juices from leaves. The application of Orthene or Isotox is good rose care and will help in treating this infestation.
5. Weak and mottled leaves with tiny white webs under them
This might be caused by aphids. They are small soft-bodied insects that are usually brown, green or red. Often clustered under leaves and flower buds. They suck plant juices from tender buds. Malathion or diazinon spray may help roses to survive these bugs.
6. Flowers that don't open or are deformed when they open.
The infestation in your rose garden is probably thrips. It is characterized with slender, brown-yellow bugs with fringed wings thriving in flower buds. They also suck juices from flower buds. The rose care for this is to cut and discard the infested flowers. Using Orthene and malathion may also treat this health problem of your roses.
This valuable information regarding the diseases your roses are prone to have will prove to be very helpful in making your rose garden ever more inviting.
About the Author: Sign up for tips in our monthly Orchid Newsletter and get your copy of "All About Orchids" e-book and your 10% Discount on an orchid. http://www.orchids-plus-more.com/orchidaceae.html
Lawn tractors are typically small tractors meant for farm work up to 2 acres. There are various attachments to the tractor, which can reduce you manual work. This will help you making use of your available time effectively in maintaining your garden in trim condition. Typically, (up to a maximum of 7 to 10 HP), these tractors come with a ZTR (zero-turning- radius) feature, which is very useful for working on a small field.
Lawn Tractors Are Versatile
Lawn tractors are versatile pieces of equipment. It can do a slew of jobs as mowing, tilling, lawn rolling, lamppost hole digging, and many other jobs. These jobs are possible through power take off spindle. This makes lawn tractors as the gardener’s best friend.
Buying A Lawn Tractor
Buying a lawn tractor is like buying a car. The value of car may be less but a range of optional accessories increases it. Therefore, consider the tractor you are buying very carefully. You may purchase the accessories at one time, as you go along using your lawn tractor. It is recommended that you try the tractor at the showroom and get an idea about the time required in attaching and detaching the accessories. Test-drive the tractor and try to get a feel of getting in and out of tractor.
Basic Cost of Lawn Tractor
The cost of small size lawn tractor starts at $900 and goes on until $6000. The basic model available just under $900 is Bolen 762F76, and the John Deere Spin-Steer SST-16 is available for $3300. Poulan Pro PK185H42ST sells at about $1400. This is just the cost of tractor alone without accessories. Accessories cost a ton with canopy starting at $110 and grass collection bag costing $300, small and large carts costing $110 to $220, can make it a costly proposition. If you are going to use your tractor just for lawn mowing, and you have a small farm of ½ to 1 acre, you can have a look at the stand behind lawnmower costing $350 instead of going for lawn tractor.
Using A Lawn Tractor Safely
The lawn tractors have a low center of gravity, and hence there is a low possibility of toppling and the accidents with lawn tractor are low. All the same, following precautions are useful while driving a lawn tractor.
• Do not ride at high speeds, especially up a hill. A small stone can throw you out of track and injure you.
• While dismounting make sure that the engine is off and the attachments are all touching ground, wherever possible.
About the Author: A.Caxton publish very often new articles to an online magazine specialized in http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com. Andrew helps people to find the best solutions for gardening tools, including mowers and http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-tractors.html
1. Pre-qualify for a mortgage. Now you know how much house you can afford before you start looking. This will narrow your search and keep you “real” and not disappointed on houses you can’t afford.
2. Find a good neighborhood. Know the school district and is it a good one if you have kids attending. Is shopping convenient? Is the area growing and can you look forward to appreciation on your house? What’s the area like? Are you next to vacant land that could be a freeway or a new mall in your backyard?
3. Log. Log your visits to potential houses. Sounds silly, but after you look at several, it can get confusing later on. Write down advantages and disadvantages of each house. Even draw a simple layout sketch to refresh your memory.
4. Money. How much more is your house going to cost than just your house payment? Taxes and Insurance. And if you are new home buyer and don’t have a huge down payment (20%) then add in mortgage insurance. Required by the government. Check with your mortgage company. They can give you the rate. Realtors sometimes forget to tell you these added costs. This will be your real payment. You also have to look at utilities. And certainly it would be hard to move into a house without repainting or wallpapering or something.
5. Shop till you drop. Don’t stop at the 3rd house and say that’s it and pick one. You should look at a bunch of homes to get a good comparison. And you’ll remember number 3 above. You should look at 15 homes at least as an average guideline.
6. Inspect. Found the house you want? Ready to make an offer? Not yet. Hire a professional inspection service. Once they make their inspection, you are better armed with any potential problems and can adjust your price accordingly.
7. Let the negotiations begin! Now you are armed with your inspection information, you are ready to negotiate carefully. Put it ALL in writing. No exceptions.
8. Moving. Allow extra time to move. Something always happens. Make sure you have plenty of overlap and plenty of time to get out of your old house. One word. Rain.
9. A word on insurance. Shop around. Consider a high deductible. $250 deductible seems a little low these days. And you pay for it. Also, consider your car insurance while shopping. Most offer discounts when they get all of your business.
10. Real Estate Agents. Yes, you can find a house on your own, but agents are helpful to assess your needs and show you houses that may match what you are looking for. They also get on your side for the negotiating. Get a referral from a friend or family.
Buying a house is a big deal. No need to rush. They make them everyday. Shopping for financing can be as big a step as actually finding the house. Don’t give up. It’s work. Then you have to move everything.
It's spring time and that means we start working on our homes. Cleaning, organizing, purchasing new things to spruce the place up are just some of the home furnishings we do. Why do we go to all this effort? Well, that's simple! We want our homes to be comfortable, clean, and beautiful so that we can enjoy it! One way to add extra storage or a great touch to a room is to add some shelving.
Adding shelving to a room can do more then create a place to store books. It can be a great focal point as well. Imagine walking into a room and being drawn to a wall of shelving displaying your favorite treasures? Of course, shelving does have some great advantages. It allows for a place to display your items, store a multitude of things, or so many more functions.
Home furnishings, like shelving are easy to find and install. It does not have to be something that causes panic. Many times we worry that the smallest project involving shelving will take us too much time or aggravation. In fact, shelving units have become much easier to install. They also come in all different types to allow you to find the best option for your area. Whether you are planning to install shelving in a closet, in the garage, or a decorative unit in your living room, there are plans and designed shelving units you can choose. Many of these shelving units are even carried in your local home improvement stores. What's more, if you can't find just the right shelving unit for your home, you simply need to check online for more options. Lastly, if you feel that shelving unit installation is just not for you, you can hire on the handyman down the street or even the guys at the hardware store to do it for you. Adding shelving to your home can be a good experience and a great addition in home furnishing to your home.
One of the pleasurable spin-offs in organic gardening is finding alternative ways of coming up with the same, if not better, end result.....
Household throwaways can be valuable to the alternate enthusiast. Here are ten recyclable ideas to make gardening a little less hard on the pocket!
1. Hedge clippings: Instead of burning or direct composting, beg, borrow or even buy, if the quantity justifies the price, an electric garden muncher.
Branches up to an inch in diameter are posted into a slot and the machine munches them up into small chips. Spread these chips thickly around shrubs or fruit trees to help keep moisture in, and control the temperature of the soil.
2. Food Waste: All food waste must be composted. Composting is becoming quite an art form, and special composting bins can be bought, or very simply made.
There are many different theories and each gardener will find his or her preferred way. Keeping the compost fairly warm is the overall key to a good result. Or, if you're in no hurry, simply keep adding to a heap, and dig out the bottom when required. Sieve before using and the compost will be ready for planting small plants and even seeds.
3. Old carpets, large damaged cardboard boxes; and similar materials can be laid over the vegetable plot in autumn to help prevent those early spring weeds appearing. Spread over a whole patch and weigh down with stones or logs. Lift off on a sunny day in early spring a few days before digging.
4. Paint trays: Keep old roller painting trays and similar containers for seed trays. Punch a few holes in the bottom for drainage. Add a little fine gravel before filling with seed compost. Seed trays shouldn't be deeper than 15cm.
5. Yoghurt pots: All plastic yoghurt or dessert pots can be washed and saved for re-potting seedlings. Make a hole in the bottom of each and add a little fine gravel before filling with compost or soil..
6. Glass jars: Glass jars with sealable lids are excellent for storing seeds, beans and peas for planting next year. (Safe from mice as well) After washing the jars, dry in the oven to remove all traces of moisture before storing your seeds. Collect dark glass jars, or wrap paper round clear jars to prevent seeds being damaged by light.
7. Ice Lolly sticks: Make perfect row markers in your seed trays or greenhouse beds. The wooden ones won't last for ever but you can at least write on them with pen, pencil or crayons!
8. Wire coat hangers: Make mini-cloches with discarded or broken wire coat hangers. Pull into a square shape. Place the hook in the soil and push down gently until the natural bend in the wire rests on top of the soil. Place another a short distance away in your seed bed to create two ends of a cloche. Now throw over a sheet of plastic and hold down with logs or stones.
Note: this will work only when creating very small cloches.
9. Clear plastic: Keep any clear plastic containers that could be placed upside down over a plant. Cut a mineral water bottle in half to make two handy individual cloches. Large sheets of clear plastic from packaged household items are fine for throwing over mini coat hanger cloches.
10. Aluminium bottle tops: Keep aluminium tops from milk or juice bottles, and also coloured foil around beer or wine bottles. Thread together to maka bird scarer. Simply thread with thick cotton and hang on your fruit bushes before the birds find the new fruits.
Look out for other tools for the garden from kitchen throwaways such as: old kitchen spoons and forks for transplanting tiny plants in the greenhouse. Leaky buckets for harvesting small quantities of potatoes, carrots etc; light wooden boxes for harvesting salads through the summer, and transporting pots etc;
Keep an eye on that rubbish bag and turn today's throwaways into tomorrow's tools!
About The Author
Linda Gray is a freelance writer and, with her partner, has spent ten years renovating an acre of neglected woodland. With a growing family to feed 'off the land', frugal gardening has become second nature! Drop in at http://www.flower-and-garden-tips.com for pots of gardening inspiration!
About Hummingbirds and How to Attract Them to Your Garden
By Lesley Dietschy
Visualize watching a bright green hummingbird in your garden moving from flower to flower in search of the tasty nectar within. These beautiful and tiny birds weigh about 2 to 20 grams and are found in a wide variety of environments from the high Andes to lowlands, and from dry desert areas to rainforests. They have slender beaks, extensible tongues, ten primary feathers, and tiny feet suitable for perching but not walking.
Hummingbirds can fly straight up, straight down, backwards, left, right, and even upside down. While most birds obtain their flight strength only from the down stroke, hummingbirds have power on the up stroke as well.
Most hummingbirds flap their wings about fifty times a second and have a very fast heartbeat and high body temperature. They feed every ten minutes or so throughout the day and typically consume two-thirds of their body weight in a single day. Their source of nutrition is primarily nectar from flowers, as well as sources of protein from insects and tiny spiders.
The key to attracting hummingbirds to your garden mainly consists of the right type of flowers and places where they can perch and rest during the day, such as trees or large plants. Hummingbirds are guided by visual means and are particularly attracted to certain shades of red. According to The Hummingbird Society, there are several possible explanations for their preference of red blossoms. Given that insects also see nectar, they can be regarded as competitors. Nearly all insects see well in the visible and near-ultraviolet light but poorly in the red end of the spectrum. Also, a red blossom may appear nearly black and unattractive to a number of insects, but not to the hummingbird, which can see the full visible spectrum but also some in the ultraviolet. This makes it less likely that an insect has taken nectar from a red flower. Another likely explanation is that during migration, red blossoms effectively contrast with a green environment more than other colored flowers do.
Hummingbirds are welcomed guests to nearly all gardens. By planting flowering shrubs and plants that are their favored food source, we can easily attract them to become regular visitors to our gardens. Below is a short list of their preferred flowering plants by common name, separated by region:
Southeastern United States:
• Butterfly Bush
• Cardinal Flower
• Coral or Trumpet Honeysuckle
• Cypress Vine
• Native Trumpet Creeper
• Texas Sage
Southwest United States:
• Indian Paintbrush
• Lantana
• Lily of the Nile
• Mexican Honeysuckle
• Texas Sage
• Western Coral Bean
West Coast United States:
• Beebalm
• Bottle Brush
• Cape Fuchsia
• Colombine
• Salmonberry
• Woodland Orchard
Northeastern United States:
• Blue Lobelia
• Cardinal Flower
• Hollyhock
• Red Morning Glory
• Salvia
• Scarlet Sage
Midwest United States:
• Coral Bells
• Coral Honeysuckle
• Foxglove
• Hosta
• Impatients
• Lilac
Even though flowers are the natural means to attract hummingbirds to your garden, man-made feeders filled with a mixture of water and sugar (sucrose) are an essential alternative. Sugar, whether from a flower or a feeder, is a necessary nutrient in a hummingbird’s diet. Tests have shown that hummingbirds favor sucrose in flower nectar more than other sugars such as fructose and glucose. Therefore, with the proper ratio of ingredients, your feeder becomes a good substitute to the flowers that hummingbirds like best.
The formula for the mixture used in hummingbird feeders is 4 parts water (not distilled) to 1 part table sugar. Boil the mixture for one to two minutes, then cool and store in refrigerator. The mixture can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one week. Do not use red food coloring, honey, or artificial sweeteners in your mixture, as this could be harmful to the hummingbirds.
If one of your goals is to attract hummingbirds to your garden, a visit to your local nursery is a great starting point. Find an experienced employee who can tell you which species of plants grow well in your area and have a history of successfully attracting hummingbirds. Most importantly, be imaginative and have fun planting and growing your garden to attract beautiful hummingbirds.
Copyright 2005, Lesley Dietschy, All rights reserved.
Lesley Dietschy is the creator/editor of The Home Decor Exchange, a popular home decor, garden decor, and home improvement website. Please visit the website for hundreds of resources, articles, ideas, tips, free projects, and much more. The website also has a unique Gallery and Consignment shop featuring Pine Needle Baskets and Gourd Art. http://www.HomeDecorExchange.com
The black walnut tree manufactures a substance that is a natural insecticide according to experts at the Texas State University in Austin.
American black walnut tress contain a tannic acid chemists call juglone. The reddish yellow substance leaches from leaves, and some believe exudes from roots, or transfers from branches and foliage to the roots. Tree physiologists agree that roots of other plants that come in contact with those black walnut tree roots die--even other black walnut seedlings.
Juglone is sometimes washed out of the still green walnuts during late summer or even autumn rains. The growth of plants 60 to 80 feet away are inhibited by the juglone. The substance affects plants of various families. Studies have found that tomatoes, alfalfa, potatoes, apples, blackberries, rhododendron, mountain laurel and pine trees are all affected.
According to a professor and extension forester at Iowa State University, juglone is known to repel various garden insects. Just by placing branches of the tree around the house and under furniture dog and cat owners are amazed to find that their pets have fewer fleas.
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Author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net
The workshop is a great place for reusing items formally destined for the landfill. Even if you do not have a shop or craft area you can always donate the items mentioned in the following paragraphs to friends, schools, shops, youth centers… The concept of reusing is as limitless as your imagination.
Screws, bolts, picture hooks, plant hangers, curtain hooks, and hinges are common hardware items used in most homes. Although not overly costly when purchased a few pieces at a time, they can add up over the years. Salvage any reusable hardware and parts from old cabinets, furniture or mechanical items before discarding. These can easily be organized and stored in plastic containers of different sizes. Shop with this in mind and purchase items like peanut butter or mayonnaise in clear plastic containers. These are our favorite as they are recyclable, sturdy and you can easily determine the jar’s contents at a glance. When buying screws and bolts avoid the small plastic packages and try to find a store that sells these items out of bulk bins. You save money and packaging too.
Strong plastic jugs from juice, milk, or detergents make excellent storage containers for tools, rags or parts in the workshop. At a section near the top of the jug remove all but a flap of plastic to attach it to a wall or post. Any rough spots can be filed off or covered with tape. Drill a few holes in the bottom for drainage and use in the same way outside in the garden and for storing clothespins.
Any clothing or towels too ragged to donate to a thrift store still have value. Cut the material into squares of different sizes to use as cleanup rags. Many garages, cabinet shops and backyard mechanics will gratefully accept excess rags. Sewing groups would gladly accept the buttons and zippers gleaned from the clothing. Children’s programs and daycare centers also use buttons for crafts.
Small household appliances that are no longer working can be salvaged for parts. If you are not familiar with this type of operation don’t attempt it - you can always donate them to handymen types that you may know, or appliance repair classes in your community. Handles from pots and pans can come in handy for fashioning custom tools, or they can be used to make a storage box easy to carry. Old utensils can be bent and made into various picks and scrapers.
The workshop can become a veritable stew pot of reuse ideas. As it is not a place commonly viewed by guests or neighbors it will not matter so much if the look is compromised by the reused items. Of course, the most important thing is the fact that you are reducing your landfill contribution by taking the matter into your own hands and making a difference!
Written by Dave and Lillian Brummet based on the concept of their book, Trash Talk. The book offers useful solutions for the individual to reduce waste and better manage resources. A guide for anyone concerned about their impact on the environment. (http://www.sunshinecable.com/~drumit)
When starting a new plant from a leaf or stem cutting, the cutting will be more likely to form roots and create a new plant if a rooting hormone is used.
While commercial rooting hormone can be used there are organic homemade versions that work as well.
To make rooting hormone soak the yellow-tipped shoots of a weeping willow tree in water. A tea made from the bark of a willow tree is also effective. When using the shoots or bark soak them for 24 hours prior to using.
Some people have found that using honey makes an effective rooting hormone as well.
Leaf cuttings: Any plant with leaves such as African Violet, Geranium etc. can be propagated with leaf cuttings. Using a sharp knife cut off a healthy leaf at the point where it joins the stem. Insert the cut part, called a petiole, into the rooting hormone. Place the end into a small container of light potting soil in which you have made a small hole with a pencil. Making a hole prior to planting assures that the rooting hormone will not be brushed off the cutting when you plant it. Perlite, Vermiculite, and/or water-soaked Sphagnum moss can be added to potting soil to make the soil light. Make sure the leaf is leaning slightly so that the new plants will have plenty of light and not be shaded by the leaf.
Stem cuttings: These are treated just like leaf cuttings except you cut off a stem with several leaves instead of just one leaf. Remove the bottom leaves, leaving a few at the top. Proceed as with the leaf cutting.
In both instances cover the pot with a plastic bag or inverted glass jar. This will keep moisture from evaporating and keep the cutting from wilting. Keep in a warm location with diffused light but out of direct sunlight. When there is indications of growth after about 3 to 6 weeks, transplant the new emerging plant into a new pot of potting soil. Continue to keep a humid environment for about 2 more weeks until active growth begins.
More organic gardening tips and supplies can be found at:
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Please leave the resource box intact with an active link, and send a courtesy copy of the publication in which the article appears to: marilynp@nctc.net
About The Author
Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: http://www.apluswriting.net
If Under the Tuscan Sun left you breathlessly and hopelessly in love with tuscan style decorating you’re certainly not alone. The rolling hills and the call of the earth itself seem to have imparted their presence into the psyche of those who either read the book or saw the movie. This growing trend in tuscan style decorating is similar to the which-came-first theory of the chicken or the egg.
Whichever the answer, the results are genuinely inspirational. Images of our direct connection to the earth itself are born and spark a craving for the proximity of familiar faces. In tuscan style decorating we are able to reflect our passion for that connection to the earth and to what is real.
All that which is old and forgotten becomes new and significant again. Elements of tuscan style decorating incorporate the outdoors within the inside confines of where we live. You don’t have to be outside to commune with nature. It instead communes in harmony with the life inside our homes.
Colors in tuscan style decorating
Warmth and intensity ... just as in fine Italian coffee fills the vivid color palette of this style. The earth’s hues in ranges from blistering yellow like the sun itself to the concentrated gold’s like those she hides in her furthermost crevices are used throughout this theme. Intense shades of russet and chocolate are likewise incorporated abundantly with prominent amounts of terra cotta.
Other earth tones are likewise blended in tuscan style decorating harmony. Include expressions of coal black, deep pool or lake blue, and olive with hints of sea green in combination with generous amounts of rusty reds for added spice.
Stone in tuscan style decorating
When it comes to home décor, this style is literally the salt of the earth. Natural stones and rocks from the earth itself bear this evidence. Even bricks, which are made by man, begin with clay and other elements of the earth.
Stone is used in tuscan style decorating very effectively in kitchens and in bathrooms. Other places where it makes a powerful statement are in fireplace surrounds and hearts as well as in foyers and other entrances. Creating a faux stone wall adds an immediate tuscan air to any room.
Before choosing stone for your tuscan style decorating project, know the physical qualities of any stone you’re considering. Before you decide which stone to use where to use it, you need to know its limitations. The three most commonly used stones are granite, limestone and marble. Granite - strong, long-lasting and heat-resistant. This stone creates a stunning tuscan style decorating focal point, but is expensive.
Limestone - natural in appearance, but very absorbent and stains easily. It is typically used in flooring and for shower interiors but is not recommended for areas that receive frequent traffic. Marble - soft and porous, unsuitable for kitchen countertops, recommended for bathrooms and floors. Use unpolished to best compliment this theme. Metal in tuscan style decorating.
True to the concept existing in harmony with the earth, the idea in tuscan style decorating is to appreciate the natural. Instead of using highly polished metals that have a shiny appearance, you’ll be incorporating metals from the past.
Select basic tin pieces to create a feeling of genuineness. If you’re creative, you may even want to try your hand at making your own tin tuscan style decorating accessories. You can go as basic or bold as you like from doing a simple picture frame to a tin insert for an antique cabinet. Mix in other unpolished metals like copper, iron and pewter as well for dramatic effects.
For some people, a fireplace might as well be a video of flaming logs. Their primary interest is the welcoming ambiance a fireplace’s blaze presents. If, however, you expect your fireplace to provide heat in exchange for your log-carrying, fire-building efforts, (or in the case of gas logs, in exchange for your gas bill), it’s time to maximize your fireplace’s heat output.
There are various contraptions designed to return more of a wood or gas fireplace’s heat into the room and stanch the flow of that precious heat from escaping up the chimney. Many of them involve fans and vents and considerable expense. But one of the most time-honored, hassle-free, and least expensive methods of increasing a fire’s heat output is making a comeback: the fireback.
A fireback is a sheet of metal, sized in proportion to the fireplace, that’s placed against your back fireplace wall. Firebacks can be set on the hearth’s floor and just leaned against the back fireplace wall, but often they are secured by placing them in supporting braces which keep the fireback from sliding. Firebacks come in two main styles: the cast iron fireback and the stainless steel fireback.
The traditional cast iron fireback, popular in earlier times and making a revival now, is a sheet of heavy, black, cast iron. Often they are cast with a design, such as a fleur de lis or eagle, to add a decorative touch to this functional fireplace accessory.
The cast iron firebacks work on the same principle as heating radiators. The metal is heated (by hot water in the case of radiators and by the fire in the case of firebacks), and then that heat is radiated into the room.
Although attractive and functional, the cast-iron firebacks are too heavy for many people to manage easily. Their weight also adds to their shipping costs, and therefore to their total price.
A more modern fireback design, one that is growing in popularity, is made of a sheet of very gently curved, tempered stainless steel. These stainless steel firebacks warm your room in two ways. First, like the cast iron firebacks, they radiate the heat of the fire forward into the room. But they also reflect the heat, as well as the light, of the fire into the room.
Stainless steel firebacks weigh only one-sixth as much as a similarly sized cast iron fireback, so they are easier to manage and less costly to ship. But their main appeal may be their price: They cost only a fraction as much as their cast iron cousins. Whereas a cast iron fireback, depending on size, can cost $250 to $700, the stainless steel versions usually go for $50 to $150.
Both cast iron and stainless steel firebacks dramatically increase the room-warming capacity of your wood or gas fireplace fire. The addition of this simple fireplace accessory to your hearth can mean warmer toes and lower heating bills.
About The Author
Susan Penney appreciates simple ways to make our homes renewing spaces for our families. She invites you to visit http://www.FireplaceMall.com for fireplace accessories to serve your fire-less or your fire-filled fireplace.
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